Hereabout are many Botticelli school pictures, chief of these the curious girl, called foolishly "La Bella Simonetta," which Mr. Berenson attributes to that unknown disciple of Botticelli to whom he has given the charming name of Amico di Sandro. This study in browns, yellow, and grey always has its public. Other popular Botticelli derivatives are Nos. 348 and 357. Look also at the sly and curious woman (No. 102), near the window, by Ubertini, a new artist here.
From this room we will enter first the Corridoio delle Colonne where Cardinal Leopoldo de' Medici's miniature portraits are bung, all remarkable, but unfortunately not named, together with a few larger works, all very interesting.
In the Sala della Giustizia we come again to the Venetians : a noble Piombo, No. 409 ; the fine Aretino and Tommaso Mosti, a subtle harmony in blacks by Titian ; Tintoretto's portrait of a man, No. 410 ; and two good Moronis. But the superbly distinguished Dosso Dossi's "Nymph and Satyr" on the easel is the most popular achievement here.
In the Sala di Flora we find some interesting Andreas; a beautiful portrait by Puligo, No. 184; and Giulio Romano's famous frieze of dancers. Also a fine portrait by Allori, No. 72. The end room of all is notable for, a Ruysdael.
Finally there is the Sala del Poccetti, out of the Sala di Prometeo. Here are four rich Poussins ; two typical Salvator Rosa landscapes and a battle piece from the same hand; and, by some strange chance, a portrait of Oliver Cromwell by Sir Peter Lely. But the malachite table again wins most attention.
And here, as we leave my last of the great picture collections of Florence, I would say how interesting it is to the returned visitor to London to go quickly to the National Gallery and see how we compare with them. Florence is naturally far richer than we, but although only now and then have we the advantage, we can valuably supplement in a great many cases. And the National Gallery keeps up its quality throughout it does not suddenly fall to pieces as the Uffizi does. Thus, I doubt if Florence with all her Andreas has so exquisite a thing from his hand as our portrait of a "Young Sculptor," so long called a portrait of the painter, himself ; and we have two Michelangelo paintings to the Uffizi's one. In Leonardo the Louvre is of course far richer, even without the, Gioconda, but we have at Burlington House the cartoon for the Louvre's S. Anne which may pair off with the Uffizi's unfinished Madonna, and we have also at the National Gallery his finished "Virgin of the Rocks," while to Burlington House one must go too for Michelangelo's beautiful tondo. In Piero di Cosimo we are more fortunate than the Uffizi; and we have Raphaels as important as those of the Pitti. We are strong too in Perugino, Filippino Lippi, and Luca Signorelli, while when it comes to Piero Bella Francesca we lead absolutely. Our Verrocchio, or School of Verrocchio, is a superb thing, while our Cimabue (from S. Croce) has a quality of richness not excelled by any that I have seen elsewhere. But in Botticelli Florence wins.
The Pitti palace contains also the apartments in which the King and Queen of Italy reside when they visit Florence. These are also shown to visitors for their furniture and decoration. Florence became the capital of Italy in 1865, on the day of the six-hundredth anniversary of the birth of Dante. It remained the capital until 1870, when Rome was chosen.
The Boboli gardens climb the hill from the Pitti. The panorama of Florence and the surrounding Apennines which one has from the Belvedere makes a visit worth while ; but the gardens themselves are, from the English point of view, poor, save in extent and in the groves on the way to the stables (scuderie). Like all gardens where clipped walks are the principal feature, they want people. They were made for people to enjoy them, rather than for flowers to grow in, and at every turn there is a new and charming vista in a green frame.
It was from the Boboli hill-side before it was a garden that much of the stone of Florence was quarried. With such stones so near it is less to be wondered at that the buildings are what they are. And yet it is wonderful too that these little inland Italian citizens should so have built their houses for all time. It proves them to have had great gifts of character. There is no such building any more.
The Grotto close to the Pitti entrance, which contains some of Michelangelo's less remarkable "Prisoners," intended for the great Julian tomb, is so "grottesque" that the statues are almost lost, and altogether it is rather an Old Rye House affair; and though Giovanni da Bologna's fountain in the midst of a lake is very fine, I doubt if the walk is quite worth it. My advice rather is to climb at once to the top, at the back of the Pitti, by way of the amphitheatre where the gentlemen and ladies used to watch court pageants, and past that ingenious fountain above it, in which Neptune's trident itself spouts water, and rest in the pretty flower garden on the very summit of the hill, among the lizards. There, seated on the wall, you may watch the peasants at work in the vineyards, and the white oxen ploughing in the olive groves, in the valley between this hill and S. Miniato, for in Italy town and country meet instantly ; there is no debatable allotment and waste ground as with us. In spring the contrast between the greens of the crops and the silver grey of olives is vivid. and comely ; in September, one may see the grapes being picked and piled into the barrels, immediately below, and hear the squdge as the wooden pestle is driven into the purple mass and the juice gushes out.
