A Wanderer In Florence
by E. V. Lucas
part of the A Wanderer Series

THE LOGGIA OF THE PALAZZO VECCHIO AND THE VIA DE' LEONI

And now we come to what is perhaps the most lovely picture in the whole gallery, judged purely as colour and sweetness and design No. 3249 a "Madonna Adoring," by Filippino Lippi. If only the Baby were more pleasing this would be perhaps the mostly delightful picture in the world: as it is, its blues alone lift it to the heavens of delectableness. The Tuscan landscape is very still and beautiful; the flowers, although conventional and not accurate like Luca's, are as pretty as can be; the one unsatisfying element is the Baby, who is a little clumsy and a little in pain, but diffuses radiance none the less. And the Mother the Mother, is all perfection and winsomeness. Her face and hands are exquisite, and the Tuscan twilight behind her is so lovely. I have given a reproduction, but colour is essential.

In the fifth room are two pictures which bear the name of the most fascinating painter who ever lived and worked Leonardo da Vinci. One is the Annunciation, upon the authenticity of which much has been said and written, and the other an unfinished Adoration of the Magi which cannot be questioned by anyone. The probabilities are that the Annunciation is an early work and that the ascription is accurate: at Oxford is a drawing known to be Leonardo's which is almost certainly a study for a detail of this work, while among the Leonardo drawings in the His de la Salle collection at the Louvre is something very like a first sketch of the whole. Certainly one can think of no one else who could have given the picture its quality, which increases in richness with every visit to the gallery; but the workshop of Verrocchio, where Leonardo worked, together with Lorenzo di Credi and Perugino, with Andrew of the True Eye over all, no doubt put forth wonderful things. The Annunciation is unique in the collection, both in colour and character : nothing in the Uffizi so deepens. There are no cypresses like these in any other picture, no finer drawing than that of Mary's hands. Luca's flowers are better, in the adjoining room; one is not too happy about the pedestal of the reading-desk; and there are Virgins whom we can like more; but as a whole it is perhaps the most fascinating picture of all, for it has the Leonardo darkness as well as light.

Of Leonardo I could write for ever, but this book is not the place; for though he was a Florentine, Florence has very little of his work: these pictures only, and one of these only for certain, together with an angel in a work by Verrocchio at the Accademia which we shall see, and possibly a sculptured figure over the north door of the Baptistery. Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, and Francis I of France, lured him away, to the eternal loss of his own city. It is Milan and Paris that are richest in his work, and after that London, which has at South Kensington a sculptured relief by him as well as a painting at the National Gallery, a cartoon at Burlington House, and the British Museum drawings.

His other work here No. 1594 in the grave brown frame, was to have been Leonardo's greatest picture in oil, so Vasari says : larger, in fact, than any known picture at that time. Although very indistinct, it is, curiously enough, best as the light begins to fail and the beautiful wistful faces emerge from the gloom. In their presence one recalls Leonardo's remark in one of his notebooks that faces are most interesting beneath a troubled sky. "You should make your portrait," he adds, "at the hour of the fall of the evening when it is cloudy or misty, for the light then is perfect." In the background one can discern the prancing horses of the Magi's suite; a staircase with figures ascending and descending; the rocks and trees of Tuscany ; and looking at it one cannot but ponder upon the fatality which seems to have pursued this divine and magical genius, ordaining that almost everything that he put forth should be either destroyed or unfinished: his work in the Castello at Milan, which might otherwise be an eighth wonder of the world, perished; his "Last Supper" at Milan perishing; his colossal equestrian statue of Francesco Sforza broken to pieces ; his sculpture lost; his Palazzo Vecchio battle cartoon perished; this picture only a sketch. Even after long years the evil fate persisted, for in 1911 his "Gioconda" was stolen from the Louvre and was too long absent.

Next we have what is in many ways the most interesting picture in Florence No. 71, the Baptism of Christ for it is held by some authorities to be the only known painting by Verrocchio, whose sculptures we shall find in the Bargello and Or San Michele, while in one of the angels that surely on the left we see the hand of his pupil Leonardo da Vinci. Their faces are singularly sweet. Other authorities consider not only that Verrocchio painted the whole picture himself but that he painted also the Annunciation at the Uffizi to which, Leonardo's name is given. Be that as it may and we shall never know this is a beautiful thing. According to Vasari it was the excellence of Leonardo's contribution which decided Verrocchio to give up the brush. Among the thoughts of Leonardo is one which comes to mind with peculiar force before this work when we know its story : "Poor, is the pupil who does not surpass his master."

The rest of the room in addition to the Botticellis, to which we come in the next chapter--is given to some fine work of the two Pollaiuolos and to the picture of Tobias and the Angels No. 8359. This called officially School of Verrocchio, and by one firm of photographers Botticini, and by another Botticelli is a fine free thing, low in colour, with a quiet landscape, and is altogether a delight. It represents Tobias and the three angels, and Raphael moves nobly, although not with quite such a step as the radiant figure in a somewhat similar picture in our own National Gallery No. 781 which, once confidently given to Verrocchio, is now attributed to Botticini; while our No. 296, which the visitor from Florence on returning to London should hasten to examine, is no longer Verrocchio but School of Verrocchio.